Additional Information
- Story
- There are soft core days and there are hardcore days and as good as our Soft Core Bomber is, sometimes we need more. And the Hardcore Hooded Bomber has pretty much everything. Swiss woven Supermarine Cotton face fabric. New Zealand knit 17.5 micron jersey lining. German made Lavalan enhanced wool insulation. German/Italian Purling Fleece for the removable hood and trim. An oversized Swiss made number 10 metal zip in the front. Italian made Zero snaps both allow the hood to be snapped in and snap the collar shut when worn hood free. YKK 2-way zips at the side seams make it highly adjustable for temperature calibration. A long zip pocket on the sleeve lets you stash what you need. An oversized hanging loop on the back doubles as a carry handle. American knit nylon rib finishes off the cuffs and collar, and to be honest we are probably forgetting something...
- Fabric
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The secret to the future, they say, is hidden in the past. Supermarine® Cotton is a 21st century edit to a nearly forgotten World War II fabric. You can think of it as the pinnacle of cotton technology, extremely breathable, highly water resistant and completely windproof. 100% Cotton fibers woven together in a complex weave that swells up and seals when exposed to water. The result is a beautiful cloth that we think is the best rainy day fabric around.
For decades it's been obscured from the public, kept alive mainly by demand from a few Air Force units, Antarctic explorers and funnily enough, bird watchers; all who have different understandings of its unique properties. Supermarine® Cotton stays comfortable under pressure and there is none of that sweaty/clammy feeling you get with GoreTex and other synthetic "waterproof-breathable" fabrics. The dense weave combined with the premium fiber results in a fabric that is simultaneously tough and supple and it breaks in beautifully.
Historically this fabric is an updated version of a fabric the British invented in World War II to keep their pilots alive in the North Sea if they happened to get shot down. It was later used by the British Navy, in Antarctic exploration and by Edmond Hillary during the first ascent of Mount Everest. It was even used to make firehoses and eventually found its way into high-end hiking gear. Since it requires a very dense weave of the most expensive cotton fibers on the market, it never quite broke through into the mainstream and with the advent of GoreTex it faded from the general marketplace. Bird watchers still sought it out since it's significantly quieter than the loud synthetic fabrics that took over, while Antarctic teams prized it for its amazing windproof quality. The main customer of the past few decades however has been various Air Forces who understood just how superior a fabric it is, and are willing to pay for it.
We source this version of Supermarine® Cotton from Switzerland and it differs from the historical British version in two important ways, it is lighter and it is treated with a premium durable water resistance (DWR) that is not wax-based. The water resistance in the historical formulation comes from two factors, the denseness of the weave and the fact that cotton fibers swell up when exposed to moisture. Adding the DWR treatment into the mix results in a significantly superior rain repellant and breathable fabric that far outclasses both the synthetic "waterproof-breathable" fabrics of the world and the heavy, clammy Barbour-style waxed cotton. It looks better, wears better and is dramatically more comfortable.
Merino is in our opinion easily nature's finest performance fabric. We use 17.5 micron fibers, because the finer fibers are softer and just plain beautiful to touch. We use 200gsm fabric, which is a bit heavier than what most merino brands use for this type garment, because it has a wonderful hand feel and is a bit more durable. We source it from New Zealand, using Zque certified wool, where it is knit into a single yet gorgeous jersey.
Merino has the incredible ability to suck moisture into the very core of the fiber. This pulls moisture away from your skin cooling you as you exercise, and allows the fabric to keep breathing if it gets wet. As the temperature cools the natural crimps in the fabric insulate you, merino simply is more comfortable in a wider range of temperatures than anything else we know of.
Merino also takes color incredibly, and since it has a natural UV resistance it hardly fades at all. We have four year old, well worn, black merino tees that are still darker and richer in color than brand new cotton ones.
One word of warning though, premium low micron merino is addictive. Once you get a taste of the merino quality it's hard to quit. Luckily its natural bacteriostatic properties make it highly odor resistant. You'll find you can get a lot more wear between washes, a good thing as ultrafine merino does not come cheap.
The most intriguing materials are sometimes the ones we understand the least. This wool-cotton-polyurethane fleece from the Italian/German luxury faux fur specialists Girmes is almost mystical yet decidedly technical in its feel. The cotton wool fleece interior is deliriously soft and warm, while the thick coating of dark olive polyurethane on the exterior gives it a slick yet supple weather resistance.
S120 Twill is a simple, washable twill woven entirely from Super 120 (17.5 micron) merino, nature's finest performance fabric.
The 2x1 twill construction is less prone to wrinkling than plain weaves. Combine that with the bacteriostatic properties of nature’s finest performance fiber and the result is a fabric that’s highly odor resistant and wrinkle averse. Plus, it’s machine washable.
While relatively heavyweight for a shirting at 200gsm, S120 Twill doesn’t feel heavy or hot. Merino’s beautifully soft drape and naturally thermoregulating properties make for a fabric that’s easy to wear year round, the world over. - Details
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- Hardcore Hooded Bomber
- 200gsm Supermarine Cotton, 120gsm Lavalan Wool Insulation, 200gsm 17.5 micron Merino wool, 495 gsm Purling Fleece hood and trim, 200gsm S120 Twill pocketing and collar.
- 100% Cotton outer.
- 88% wool, 12% PLA insulation.
- 100% 17.5 micron Merino wool knit lining.
- 100% Super 120, 17.5 micron woven Merino wool pocketing and collar.
- Hood with 54% wool, 46% cotton lining and 100% PU backing.
- #10 Riri front zip
- Two-way side zips
- Zippered arm pocket
- Two front pockets
- Hardcore rear hang loop
- Removable hood with hidden zero snap attachments
- Spot clean or dry clean PCE gentle.
- Made in New York City with American, German, Italian, New Zealand, Swiss and Thai materials.
- Hardcore Hooded Bomber
- Sizing
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Fits true to size.
Please refer to the table below for garment's exact measurements.
Garment measurements in inches, measured flatSize XS S M L XL Chest 24 25 26 27 28 Length high shoulder to bottom 26.75 27.38 28 28.63 29.25 Sleeve length center back to cuff 36 36.5 37 37.5 38 Body measurements in inchesSize XS S M L XL Chest 34 36 38 40 42 - Colors
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Black
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November 2016
Mutations
in Material and Form
Photos: Luis Alberto
Rodriguez
Location: Berlin,
Germany
Garments Featured: Dufflefleece,
Experiment
015 - Supermarine Cape, Experiment
016 - The Purling, Hardcore
Hooded Bomber, Doublefine
Merino Hooded Scarf, Doublefine
Merino Balaclava, Bandana
Neck Merino T-Shirt, Liberated
Wool Dufflecoat